For most buyers, the Cartier Santos to start with is the steel Santos de Cartier, in medium (35.1 mm wide, no date) or large (39.8 mm wide, with a date). Both run Cartier's in-house automatic calibre 1847 MC on a bracelet you can resize and swap without tools. For something thinner and dressier on leather, look at the Santos-Dumont. For the older look at a lower price, look at a pre-owned Santos 100 or Galbée. As of October 2026, Cartier's US site lists the steel medium (WSSA0029) at $8,400 and the steel large (WSSA0018) at $9,200.
The Santos is the square watch with screws on the bezel. What trips people up is that the name has covered several watches since 1904, with different sizes, movements and bracelets. Below are the main ones, their sizes and prices, and what to check on a pre-owned watch.
A short history of the Santos
In 1904 Louis Cartier made a square wristwatch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator who couldn't check a pocket watch while flying. Cartier is thought to have worked with the movement maker Edmond Jaeger, and the original watch has been lost. The Santos went on sale in 1911 and for decades stayed a gold or platinum watch on leather.
The Santos most people picture arrived on 20 October 1978 at the Musée de l'Air in Paris. It was steel with gold accents, on a matching bracelet with visible screws. Revolution describes it as Cartier's first watch in a metal other than gold or platinum. An all-steel version followed soon after.
From there:
- 1987: the case softened into the more curved Santos Galbée.
- 2004: for the centenary, Cartier added the larger Santos 100.
- 2005: the Galbée XL arrived with an automatic movement.
- Around 2016: the older models left the catalogue.
- January 2018: the relaunched Santos de Cartier.
- 2019: the slim Santos-Dumont came back into the core collection.
The Santos de Cartier (2018 onward)
Three things changed in 2018.
First, the bezel. The old one was a neat square. The new one stretches out to meet the bracelet, so case and bracelet read as one shape. The eight screws stayed.
Second, the movement. The Galbée XL and most automatic Santos 100s used ETA-based calibres. The 2018 watches use Cartier's own calibre 1847 MC, a 4 Hz automatic with 23 jewels that first appeared in the Clé de Cartier. Cartier's product pages don't give a power reserve. Monochrome quotes 42 hours and WatchesbySJX quotes 48, so expect to reset it after a long weekend in a drawer.
Third, the bracelet. QuickSwitch lets you swap bracelet and strap by pressing a small button on the underside where they meet the case. SmartLink puts a push-piece under each bracelet link, so you can take links out with a fingertip. New watches usually come with both bracelet and leather strap. The catch is that the fitting is proprietary, so ordinary aftermarket straps won't attach.
Cartier rates the automatic medium and large to 10 bar (about 100 metres) and the small quartz model to 3 bar.
The Santos-Dumont
The Santos-Dumont stays close to the 1904 watch: thin, on leather, and fitted with a beaded crown set with a cabochon spinel instead of the seven-sided crown and faceted stone on the Santos de Cartier.
Quartz versions run about six years on a battery, according to Cartier. Hand-wound versions use the calibre 430 MC. Every Santos-Dumont we checked on Cartier's US site is rated to 3 bar, fine in the rain but not for swimming.
Older Santos generations you'll find pre-owned
Santos and Santos Galbée (1978 to about 2016). The early Santos had sharper angles and squarer links. The 1987 Galbée rounded things off and gave the bracelet convex links. The Galbée XL (reference 2823 is one example) measures 32 mm wide, 45 mm lug to lug and 8.8 mm thick, and runs the calibre 049, which Fratello identifies as an ETA 2892. Any watchmaker can service it, Fratello notes.
Santos 100 (from 2004). The anniversary model is larger. aBlogtoWatch measured the steel large version at 38 mm across the case, 41.3 mm including the crown, 51.1 mm long and 10.34 mm thick. W20073X8 is the steel model on a strap, and W20072X7 has an 18k gold bezel. According to WatchesbySJX, the Santos 100 Carbon of 2016 was the first automatic Santos with the in-house 1847 MC, so check which movement you're looking at.
Cartier Santos sizes and current references
Prices are US list prices from Cartier's site, read on 26 October 2026. Many pages also say "Unavailable online," so confirm with Cartier. Case sizes are width x length x thickness in millimetres. The 1847 MC is automatic. The medium and large Santos de Cartier are rated to 10 bar, and the small Santos de Cartier and the Santos-Dumont models to 3 bar.
Santos de Cartier
| Model | Ref. | Case (mm) | Movement | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Small, steel | WSSA0082 | 27.0 x 34.5 x 7.08 | Quartz | $6,850 |
| Medium, steel | WSSA0029 | 35.1 x 41.9 x 8.83 | 1847 MC, no date | $8,400 |
| Large, steel | WSSA0018 | 39.8 x 47.5 x 9.38 | 1847 MC, date | $9,200 |
| Large, two-tone | W2SA0009 | 39.8 x 47.5 x 9.38 | 1847 MC, date | $14,200 |
| Large, titanium | WSSA0089 | 39.8 x 47.5 x 9.38 | 1847 MC, date | $11,500 |
| Large, yellow gold | WGSA0029 | 39.8 x 47.5 x 9.38 | 1847 MC, date | $48,800 |
Santos-Dumont
| Model | Ref. | Case (mm) | Movement | Price |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Large, steel | WSSA0085 | 31.4 x 43.5 x 7.3 | Quartz | $5,250 |
| XL, steel | WSSA0032 | 33.9 x 46.6 x 7.5 | 430 MC, hand-wound | $7,800 |
Two-tone means a steel case with an 18k yellow gold bezel. The yellow gold large is on a gold bracelet.
Cartier also lists the steel and gold medium (W2SA0016) at $12,900, the small quartz Santos-Dumont (WSSA0086) at $4,800, a steel Dual Time (WSSA0076) at $11,100 and skeleton models with the hand-wound calibre 9611 MC from $33,500.
Santos de Cartier medium vs large: how they wear
On a square watch, length matters as much as width, because a square case covers more wrist than a round one of the same width. The medium runs 41.9 mm lug to lug. The large runs 47.5 mm.
As a rough starting point, not a rule:
- Under about 6.5 inches, the medium usually sits better. The large can overhang the edges of a narrow, flat wrist.
- Around 6.5 to 7.5 inches, both can work, and it comes down to taste. The medium looks dressier. The large looks sportier.
- Over 7.5 inches, the large usually looks more in proportion.
Only the large has a date, so if you want a clean, symmetrical dial, that points to the medium. Both use the same 1847 MC, so the only thing you give up by going smaller is the date. Try it on and look straight down. If the lugs sit inside the edges of your wrist, it fits.
Steel, two-tone or gold
Steel is the usual choice. It is easy to wear every day and easy to find pre-owned.
Steel and gold puts an 18k yellow gold bezel on a steel case. aBlogtoWatch's review notes gold screws on the bracelet as well. It's the look of the 1978 original.
Solid gold changes the price completely: the large on a gold bracelet lists at $48,800, against $9,200 for steel.
Titanium lists at $11,500 in the large, $2,300 more than steel, for a lighter watch. The black ADLC models are coated steel. Coatings can wear through on sharp edges, so check the bezel corners on a pre-owned one.
What to check on a pre-owned Santos
Start with paperwork. Cartier engraves the serial number on the case back and prints it on the warranty card, and the two should match. Registering with Cartier Care extends the warranty to up to eight years, and Cartier suggests registering within the standard two-year international warranty. Cartier's pages don't say whether the extension carries over to a second owner, so ask the seller what was registered and when.
Then look at the case. The line between brushed surfaces and polished bevels is the first thing a polishing wheel softens, so crisp edges are a good sign. Check the screws too. Fratello advises looking for a Galbée XL whose screws haven't been brushed to match the bracelet, since the polished screws against brushed steel are part of the design.
On a 2018 or later watch, test the hardware:
- Press each QuickSwitch button and make sure the bracelet and strap click in and hold firmly.
- Check the SmartLink push-pieces work and ask for any removed links.
- Ask whether the Cartier leather strap is included, since aftermarket straps won't fit.
Cartier recommends a movement check every six years and new seals every two years under normal wear, so ask for service receipts. On a vintage Santos or Galbée, assume no water resistance until a watchmaker has tested it. Our guide to how often to service a watch covers what a full service involves.
For authenticity in general terms:
- The standard silver dial of the 2018 Santos de Cartier hides a small "Cartier" signature in the VII. Some dials don't have one, including the gradient blue dial WatchesbySJX reviewed in 2019, so treat it as one check among several.
- The movement should match the generation. A 2018 or later automatic Santos de Cartier in medium or large should have the 1847 MC, not an ETA.
- Crowns differ by model. The Santos de Cartier has a seven-sided crown with a faceted stone, and the Santos-Dumont has a beaded crown with a cabochon.
- Box and papers help, but they aren't proof on their own.
For more, read how to authenticate a luxury watch and is it safe to buy a watch online.
Is the Cartier Santos worth it?
If you want one watch for a suit on Monday and a T-shirt on Saturday, yes. Swap the bracelet for the leather strap and it reads as a different watch, with no tools needed.
The trade-offs: the strap fitting is proprietary, the standard silver dial has no lume, and list prices have risen well past the 2018 launch prices. WatchesbySJX reported the steel medium at $6,250 and the steel large at $6,850 in July 2018, compared with $8,400 and $9,200 today. Buy it because you like wearing it, not as a bet on prices.
Weighing a rectangular Cartier too? Our Cartier Tank guide covers the Louis Cartier, Must and Française.
FAQ
What is the difference between the Santos de Cartier medium and large?
The medium measures 35.1 mm wide and 41.9 mm long and has no date. The large measures 39.8 mm wide and 47.5 mm long and has a date at six o'clock. Both use the calibre 1847 MC automatic and the QuickSwitch and SmartLink systems. As of October 2026 Cartier's US site lists the steel medium at $8,400 and the steel large at $9,200.
Which Cartier Santos size should I buy?
Look at length as much as width. As a rough guide, under about 6.5 inches the medium usually fits better, between 6.5 and 7.5 inches either can work, and over 7.5 inches the large usually looks more in proportion. Try both on if you can. The lugs should sit inside the edges of your wrist.
What is the difference between the Santos-Dumont and the Santos de Cartier?
The Santos de Cartier is the sport-leaning model with an integrated bracelet, an automatic movement and 10 bar water resistance. The Santos-Dumont is a thin dress watch on leather, powered by quartz or the hand-wound calibre 430 MC, with 3 bar water resistance. As of October 2026 its quartz versions start at $4,800 on Cartier's US site.
How much does a Cartier Santos cost?
As of October 2026, Cartier's US site lists the small quartz Santos-Dumont at $4,800, the starting point we found for the family. The steel Santos de Cartier lists at $8,400 in medium and $9,200 in large, and a yellow gold large on a gold bracelet lists at $48,800. Pre-owned prices vary with age, condition and papers, so compare live listings.
Is the Cartier Santos worth it?
Yes, if you want one watch for work and weekends. It has an in-house automatic, 100 metres of water resistance and tool-free strap changes. The trade-offs are a proprietary strap fitting, no lume on the standard dial and higher list prices since 2018.
Can you swim with a Cartier Santos?
The current Santos de Cartier medium and large are rated to 10 bar, about 100 metres, so swimming is fine if the seals are in good order. The small quartz Santos de Cartier and every Santos-Dumont are rated to 3 bar, which covers rain, not swimming. Treat vintage models as not water resistant until tested.
Find your Santos on Dialist
Browse current Cartier Santos listings on Dialist, or see every Cartier watch listed on Dialist. Every watch is authenticated before it ships, comes with an authenticity guarantee up to USD $100,000, and is paid for through Dialist Secure Checkout with insured shipping and 7-day returns. Looking for a particular reference, dial or metal? Can't find it? We'll find it. Dialist serves the United States and Canada.
Sources
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier collection
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier medium, steel, WSSA0029
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier large, steel, WSSA0018
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier medium, steel and gold, W2SA0016
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier large, steel and gold, W2SA0009
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier skeleton, WHSA0015
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier large, yellow gold, WGSA0029
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier large, titanium, WSSA0089
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier Dual Time, WSSA0076
- Cartier: Santos de Cartier small, steel, WSSA0082
- Cartier: Santos-Dumont small, WSSA0086
- Cartier: Santos-Dumont large, WSSA0085
- Cartier: Santos-Dumont large, hand-wound, WSSA0046
- Cartier: Santos-Dumont XL, WSSA0032
- Cartier: Watch servicing and care FAQ
- Cartier: Watch warranties
- Revolution: Cartier, A Santos Story
- Revolution: Cartier Santos, A Brief History
- Monochrome Watches: History of the Pilot Watch, Cartier Santos 1904
- Monochrome Watches: 2018 Cartier Santos Large hands-on
- Fratello: Exploring Evergreens, the Cartier Santos Galbée XL
- aBlogtoWatch: Cartier Santos with QuickSwitch and SmartLink
- aBlogtoWatch: Cartier Santos review, 2018 model
- aBlogtoWatch: Cartier Santos 100 review
- WatchesbySJX: Hands-on with the Cartier Santos 2018 edition
- WatchesbySJX: Cartier Santos gradient blue review
- WatchesbySJX: Cartier Santos 100 with an in-house movement
