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The Explorer is the Rolex that went up Everest: a steel Oyster case, a black dial with 3, 6 and 9 in Arabic numerals, no date and nothing to adjust. It has been made since 1953 and has changed less than any other Rolex. The Explorer II of 1971 adds a fixed 24-hour bezel, a date and an orange hand for a second time zone, and today comes in 42 mm with a black or a white dial.
Every Explorer on Dialist is listed by a verified dealer and covered by buyer protection. Start with the Explorer II if you want the date and the second time zone, or the white-dial Polar.
The 6350 of 1953 was the first watch to carry the Explorer name, after the Oyster Perpetuals worn on that year's Everest expedition. The 1016 followed in 1963 and ran for twenty-six years, the longest life of any Explorer reference. The 14270 of 1989 brought the sapphire crystal and applied white-gold numerals; the 114270 of 2001 added solid end links and the calibre 3130.
In 2010 Rolex moved the Explorer to 39 mm with the 214270, and in 2021 back to 36 mm with the 124270 and the 70-hour calibre 3230, alongside the first two-tone Explorer, the 124273 in steel and yellow gold. A 40 mm 224270 joined in 2023, so the collection now sells in two sizes at once.
The Explorer II began as the 1655 of 1971, a 39 mm watch with a large orange 24-hour hand collectors call the Freccione. The 16550 of 1985 made the hour hand independently settable, a true second time zone, and introduced the white Polar dial. The 16570 ran from 1989 to 2011, the 42 mm 216570 from 2011 to 2021, and the 226570 arrived for the fiftieth anniversary in 2021 with the calibre 3285.
Explorer or Explorer II
The Explorer is a three-hand watch with no date, in 36 or 40 mm. The Explorer II is 42 mm with a date, a fixed 24-hour bezel and a second time zone. Same case family, very different presence on the wrist.
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Sizes
The Explorer was 36 mm for most of its life, 39 mm from 2010 to 2021, and 36 or 40 mm since. The Explorer II was 39 mm as the 1655, 40 mm from 1985 to 2011, and 42 mm since. Under a seven-inch wrist, the 36 Explorer is the comfortable pick.
Dials
The Explorer is black only on every reference. The Explorer II comes in black or white, and the white Polar is the one buyers ask for by name. Vintage 16550 whites often aged to cream, which collectors pay for; a refinished dial is the thing to avoid.
Movements
Current references run the calibre 3230 (Explorer) and 3285 (Explorer II), both with 70 hours of reserve and the Chronergy escapement. The 214270 and 216570 run the 3132 and 3187 with about 48 hours. All are chronometer certified.
Bracelet and bezel
Oyster bracelet only, on every Explorer ever made, with the Easylink extension since 2010. Bezels are smooth steel on the Explorer and a fixed engraved 24-hour ring on the Explorer II; neither has ever used ceramic.
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