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The Submariner is the dive watch every other dive watch is measured against: a steel Oyster case, a unidirectional bezel for timing a dive, luminous markers you can read in the dark, and 300 metres of water resistance. Rolex launched it in 1953 for professional divers, and it has been in the catalogue ever since with the same silhouette.
Every Submariner on Dialist is listed by a verified dealer and covered by buyer protection. Start with the Submariner Date, the reference most buyers want, or go straight to a collector favourite such as the Hulk.
The first Submariner, reference 6204, was rated to 100 metres and had no date. The date window arrived in 1969 with the reference 1680, which is why the collection still splits in two: the Submariner, a no-date watch for purists, and the Submariner Date. Depth rating rose to 300 metres with the reference 16800 in 1979.
The modern generation began in 2008 with a ceramic bezel insert and a heavier case, first in gold and then in steel with the 116610LN of 2010. In 2020 the case grew from 40 to 41 mm and the movements changed to the calibre 3230 (no date) and 3235 (date), each with a 70-hour power reserve. These are the references in production today: the 124060 and the 126610 family.
Collectors have named the colourful ones. Green bezel over a black dial is the Kermit (16610LV, 2003) or its 2020 successor the Starbucks; green on green is the Hulk; the white-gold blue watch is the Smurf; the two-tone blue is the Bluesy.
Date or No Date
The no-date Submariner is steel only, black only, and a little cheaper; it is the purist's choice. The Date adds the window and the Cyclops lens and comes in every metal and colour the collection offers.
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Materials
Steel is most of the market and holds its value best. Two-tone pairs steel with yellow gold in black or blue. Full yellow gold and white gold are the dress end of a dive watch and trade at a fraction of their retail premium.
Bezels and dials
Aluminium bezel inserts up to 2008, ceramic since. Black is the default; green and blue mark the named references. A ceramic bezel does not fade or scratch, so condition on older aluminium pieces is worth checking.
Sizes
40 mm from 1959 to 2020, 41 mm since, with slimmer lugs that wear much like the older case. Vintage references before 1959 are 37 to 38 mm.
Movements
Five-digit references run the calibre 3135 (date) or 3130; six-digit references from 2020 run the 3235 and 3230 with 70 hours of reserve and a Chronergy escapement. All are chronometer certified.
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