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The Oyster Perpetual is the purest Rolex: the waterproof Oyster case of 1926 and the self-winding Perpetual rotor of 1931, a smooth bezel, an Oyster bracelet and no date. Every other Rolex grew out of it. It comes in five sizes from 28 to 41 mm and, since 2020, in the lacquered dial colours that turned the entry-level Rolex into a collector's watch.
Every Oyster Perpetual on Dialist is listed by a verified dealer and covered by buyer protection. Start with the turquoise Tiffany dial, or the Oyster Perpetual 36, the size with the most choice.
Oyster is the case, Perpetual is the movement, and the two words appear on the dial of almost every Rolex made. The plain Oyster Perpetual has carried only those words since the 1950s: a time-only watch in steel, offered in 34 mm for decades, then in 26, 31 and 36 mm, and from 2015 in 39 mm as the 114300.
In September 2020 Rolex relaunched the whole collection at once: 41 mm (124300), 36 mm (126000), 34 mm (124200), 31 mm (277200) and 28 mm (276200), on the calibres 3230 and 2232, with a set of lacquered dials in turquoise, coral red, yellow, green and candy pink beside the usual silver, black and blue. The turquoise was nicknamed Tiffany within weeks and the 41 mm version was gone by 2022, along with the red and yellow 41s, which made them the most traded steel Rolexes of the decade.
The Celebration dial of 2023 to 2025 scattered coloured bubbles over turquoise on three sizes. In 2025 the 41 mm case was refined as the 134300 and pastel dials arrived; in 2026, for the Oyster's centenary, Rolex added two-tone and solid-gold Oyster Perpetuals for the first time in the modern line.
Sizes
41 mm is the men's default, 36 mm the classic that fits anyone and has the most dial colours, 34 and 31 mm the mid sizes, 28 mm the smallest. The 39 mm 114300 of 2015 to 2020 is the discontinued size collectors seek out.
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Dials
Silver, black and blue sunray dials are always available. The 2020 lacquer colours (turquoise, coral red, yellow, green, candy pink) were cut back in 2022 and trade well above retail; the Celebration bubble dial ran 2023 to 2025.
Movements
The 36 and 41 mm run the calibre 3230 with 70 hours of reserve; the 28, 31 and 34 mm run the 2232 with a silicon hairspring and 55 hours. Pre-2020 references run the 3130, 3132 and 2231 with about 48 hours.
Materials
Steel only from 2020 to 2025. The 2026 centenary added steel and yellow gold in 31, 36 and 41 mm and solid gold in 28 and 34 mm, so a two-tone Oyster Perpetual is new to the market and scarce.
Bracelet and bezel
Oyster bracelet with the Easylink extension, a smooth domed bezel and no date on every modern reference. There is nothing to go wrong and nothing to set, which is the point.
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